Wednesday, December 5, 2012

The Fabrics of our iLives

"Fashion forward" -- more than pleasant alliteration, this (sometimes mis-ascribed) describer of the sartorially daring and innovative is in essence the perfect compact description of the most basic fashion mindset. There is always an eye on the future, conversation of winter wear in the summertime, an unending precognition of what people will want to wear in the year ahead.

Acting with an eye on the future begins with the smallest details of garment making -- like selecting textiles and design inspirations -- and benefits tremendously from comprehensive tools that utilize the connectedness 21st-century artists get through the iLife every man, woman, and child now leads.

Downtown LA's Fashion Business Inc. building was the nexus of textiles and fashion seminars at the end of October during LA Textile Week -- while fabric vendors showcased their wares for Fall/Winter 2013 in the lobby through loose groupings under varied and enticing thematic inspirations, seminars on the latest wholesale fashion buying business aides were being held upstairs. One tool featured was a new app for the iPhone and iPad called Balluun, a free and simple business-to-business platform that connects fashion designers and boutique buyers through what Venture Beat called the "trade show that never sleeps."

Created by two sons of German fashion retailers who grew up on an island in the middle of a lake separating Germany from Switzerland, this simplifying tool will revolutionize fashion buying. Instead of retailers having to go through dozens of avenues to fill their shelves and hangers -- hunting for, contacting, and purchasing from each designer individually -- they can now simply browse through Balluun's ever-growing assemblage of featured designers, easily shopping this virtual designer mall for the perfect pieces and purchasing as they go. All the buyers' selections are compiled into a single inventory, so say goodbye to those mountains of paperwork and incessant filing just to keep orders straight. What's more: Balluun also incorporates a social media component that allows designers and buyers to converse about the purchases through the app in real time.

screenshot of Balluun homepage courtesy of Venture Beat

Brothers Karl and Peter Koch grew up traveling Europe going to trade shows with their fashion retailer parents. After Peter graduated from college and began working in the computer industry with Cisco, he and his brother decided to take their childhood experiences and re-fab them with a new age spin.

"I have seen how technology can change whole industries," Peter said. "Together my brother Karl and I have founded Balluun to tackle the fashion industry's inefficiencies. With Balluun, the seller can reduce the paperwork and time to conduct business. [They] can announce new products and collections all year-round. A buyer can review their designers' line sheets at anytime, and of course from anywhere."

Peter said of the app's popularity, "the response has been outstanding, and we're growing very fast with more designers and retailers joining every day." One such designer who has been using Balluun since August is Kiki Kashyap Hasija, the head designer behind Aria by Kiki Resortwear. Kiki said Balluun was particularly beneficial to her when her website was under construction, because she was simply able to make professional presentations to buyers on her iPad using the app.

"Balluun is indeed a useful platform for designers who want to get their lines out there without having to spend a dime," Kiki said. "I have been able to connect with retailers all over the U.S., and they have been able to view my linesheets and give their feedback instantly."

To read about the LA Fashion Week debut of Aria by Kiki's to-die-for Spring/Summer 2013 collection at the Project Ethos runway in October, check out my guest feature on her blog here.

The debut of Aria by Kiki Resortwear's Spring/Summer 2013 collection at the Project Ethos fashion show during LA Fashion Week, October 2012
(photos courtesy of Aria by Kiki Resortwear)

Kiki said she is always eager to attend the bi-annual LA Textile Show in the city's Fashion District, and at October's gathering she "got totally inspired by all by all the lovely new fabric offerings they had. I found some gorgeous prints, laces, and silks that I will be using for my Fall 2013 collection." Furthermore, as Kiki looks to expand her line to include accessories, she said she benefitted from meeting some high quality manufacturers through the textile show.

Indeed, there was an abundance of delicate lace in a variety of textures and colors to choose from, as well as a great showing of technical handiwork; strips of fabric were adorned with 3-D cloth blooms, there were little individual leaves made entirely of sequins, and cloth feathers that looked strikingly like the real thing, the cloth base overlaid with some strings of thread that were feathered at their ends to give the illusion of plumage.

Though super soft faux fur and exotic unique prints made a strong showing, it was truly sequins and brocade that ruled the forward gaze to Fall 2013. In fact, at one point I even found a swatch of sequins that had been sewn into a glittering brocade pattern that would have made Marie Antoinette weak at the knees.

LA Textile Show, October 2012
photos by Kyveli Sophia and Emvy Venti

Leading trend forecaster WGSN contributed three thematic trend ideas for next fall's fashion as well:

Living Design
This theme, as the name implies, was an ode to the natural elements that inspire fashion. There were the faux fur, feathers, earth tones, and animal bones incorporated into fabrics alongside printed fabrics that featured animals, plants, and the instances where humans and animals come together (such as an adorable silk swatch adorned with images of cowboys, Indians, and horses). In addition to organic, flowing lines in the designs, a major focus of this trend was comfort and protection (clearly inspired by the elements of weather and protecting the poor, ill-equipped human animal from them), and in that vein there was an abundance of cozy quilted and wrapped construction in the garments.

Hack-tivate
A hyper-modern thematic trend, the Hack-tivate presentation was dominated by a sense of DIY and deconstruction. Customization and repair are optimized with creative cutting, color blocking, and other technical elements. Unexpected styling and layering loan this trend the eccentricity that comes with its aim at quirky, futuristic luxury.

21st Century Romance
Beginning from the base of simple dancewear and evolving into something regal with a modern take on fantasy dress, this feminine, clean, whimsical trend theme struck a chord with me, and was the favorite of Kiki Hajisa as well. Defined by delicate sheers and trims and simple silhouettes, this theme's artistic draw for me was in the juxtaposition of humble draping and modern sharp lines keeping with the main idea of clerical style meeting theater wardrobe.

"I loved that the theme is surrounded by craftsmanship, luxury, and beauty but is updated with a contemporary sharpness and ethereal feel," Kiki said. "This theme tends to fit the Aria by Kiki label in its current and future collections."